Rylstone Cross & Cracoe Fell
Follow a rewarding ridge line along the outskirts of Barden Moor
Summary
Rylstone is a tiny village alongside the busy A6265 Skipton to Grassington road with an attractive duck pond manor house, which used to be the village green. It is also home to the famous ‘Calendar Girls’ which is where some of them still live. For such a small hamlet, it’s your standard pretty country village in the Dales.
The Hike
“I can’t believe it! I’ve forgotten my boots! I’m not going back now. What an idiot!”, I said to myself in frustration. “I’ll have to walk in my trainers, that basically feel like slippers. Brilliant!”
Although frustrated, I began the hike from Rylstone village where I parked besides the duck pond. Here, I could see the summits of both Cracoe Fell and Rylstone Cross standing high up on the ridgeline in front, whilst the sky was painted a cloudless baby blue. I was excited to discover something new, although I have past the area on numerous of occasions on my bike, I have never noticed the monuments until now.
I started by crossing the main road, that leads towards a gravel track, whilst roaming sheep and newborn lambs grazed in the surrounding fields. As I passed the church of St,Peters, I turned right, following the signpost of ‘Barden Moor’. The long track brought me towards the first and only ascent of the day, up to the summit of Rylstone Cross. Meanwhile, as I walked along the long track, I could see in the distance the trail snaking its way upwards. It looked steep and unforgiving, but I knew I would be rewarded at the top with exquisite views. As I approached, a group of women passed, offering me a small chocolate easter egg. “Would you like to have an Easter egg for your way up” I put my hand into the collection of eggs and scoffed the first one which I grabbed into my mouth. With my mouth wide open trying to eat the chocolate egg and take in as much oxygen as possible, I puffed my way up the windy track, taking in the surrounding views of wonderful Wharfedale that lay behind me.
It was glorious day!
Cresting to the summit of Barden Moor, the landscape changed to bleak wind-swept moorland. The wind was howling, cutting its way through the heather, swaying from side to side. It made it almost impossible to stand in parts. Luckily, I veered off to the left, and followed a narrow path alongside a dry-stone wall which made a great wind blocker!
Not long afterwards, I soon faced the wind again, as I approached Rylstone Cross. The Cross stood high on an exposed prominent position on Rylstone Fell, and was erected to mark the Paris Treaty of 1813 following the Battle of Waterloo. I tried getting as close as I could to take a quick photo, but the wind was brutal! Almost blowing me backwards as it wrapped itself around my body! I didn’t feel very safe and carefully headed back towards the wall.
I had a couple of options to choose from, either follow the south side of the wall, or a thinner path on the north side of the wall along Rylstone Edge. It is said to be far more exciting and involves some ‘nice easy’ scrambling, apparently. It definitely wasn’t that easy in gusty conditions, making the experience far more challenging and dangerous in parts. Whilst scrambling on the rocks, the wind seemed to be coming from all directions as I watched the terrain fall away in front of me. I decided to turn around and climb over the wall, and follow the path on the south side. I felt much safer, but my stomach was growling at me with hunger. I had to find shelter for lunch; luckily there were some large boulder like rocks moulded into the landscape ahead.
I moved quickly towards the rocks and retreated from the wind, as I sat and admired the landscape whilst munching on my lunch.
I continued onwards besides the dry-stone wall, to the war memorial of Cracoe Fell. The landmark stood on a gritstone plinth and is said to have been erected in honour of the local fallen in the Great War. Upon arrival, I balanced myself against the ferocious wind, taking a quick photograph before descended steeply down towards the village of Cracoe.
It was too windy to hang about!
“I’m glad I didn’t go up here, this is well steep” I muttered to myself as I made myself down the hillside. Eventually, I found myself approaching some sheep pens at the bottom which brought me towards Fell Lane Track, gently meandering my way towards the village. As I approached the main road, I navigated my way through a quiet housing estate, following the road to the right of me and then onto Chapel Lane. The gentle path guided me back to Rylstone, whilst I glanced to the left of me, admiring the faraway monuments that sat on the ridge line that I had descended from earlier.
It’s no wonder that this is a popular hike, as almost anyone can enjoy the rewards of the rolling landscape of the Yorkshire Dales.
