Wharfedale Three Peaks
A long day in the Wharfedale Valley
Summary
Its rolling countryside, dry-stone walls, roaming sheep, quaint stone build buildings, underground labyrinth of caves, roaring rivers, and expansive heather moorland tops, characterize the Yorkshire Dales. The Dales are more commonly known for the Yorkshire’s three peaks, comprising Pen-y-Ghent, Whernside & Ingleborough. Although popular and crowded, only a handful may wish to take the path less travelled, and it is where the Wharfedale three peaks come into its own. Setting off from the village of Kettlewell; follow a circuit of Great Whernside, Buckden Pike, and ending on one of the more remote fells–Birks Fell. Offering excellent panorama views of the valley of Wharfedale - take a voyage through expansive moorland, along sheep tracks, marshy tracks, farm tracks and in places barely a track at all. It is a long day out in the hills, a very hard day out in hills, but one to truly get away from it all and feel a sense of accomplishment.
The Hike
I had attempted the Wharfedale three peaks recently, but unfortunately, bad weather forced me to turn back at the top of Great Whernside. Although it was the sensible option at the time, I felt frustrated and had been longing to come back to give it another stab. A couple of days prior, I knew there would be a window of opportunity for pleasant weather. This was my chance to come back for unfinished business, to feel free from life itself, and to roam the fells of Wharfedale.
I began early morning from the village of Kettlewell. I could see that it was going to be a clear day as I looked around. The moon was still visible, and the air felt cool enough to not have to layer up, although there was still some cloud looming over the high fells. I tied my boots, threw over my rucksack, and began my adventure. Immediately feeling calmer, knowing that I was going to be out in the hills for at least 7 hours on my own without a worry in the world.
The first fell was Great Whernside, long and relentless, rising high above the clouds. All I could hear was the sound of my breath, putting one step in front of the other, immersing myself in the environment in which I walked. Walking up to the summit was a bit of a slog, but I enjoyed the change in the landscape the higher I became. However, once I passed Hag dyke, a blanket of thick white clouds, strong winds, and cold air submerged the summit. It felt like I was on another planet! The calm environment I was not long ago walking through had quickly changed. I had to shelter behind the rocks so that I could put my gloves and an extra layer on. So much for not having to layer up.
From the summit, I traversed carefully through the thick cloud, following narrow wet racks, and over slippery stiles. I was hoping it would not be like this the entire way until suddenly, there was a break in the clouds. Spectacular views of the valley below revealed themselves, teasing me with its beauty for a brief moment before covering again.
Not long after, I eventually made it out of the clouds. The views were incredible, and as I looked back, I could see that it was only Great Whernside that was covered in thick clouds. Everywhere else was clear, which didn’t come across as a surprise, as it was the highest point of the entire route. Needless to say, I continued along probably the boggiest part of the route. Some areas were almost unavoidable. At least my boots were waterproof, and luckily, I had my walking poles too. They were an absolute godsend, especially when trying to navigate over such challenging conditions. Some of it was like walking through treacle.
After a long and relentless ascent, I arrived at the summit of Buckden Pike. Although by this point the wind was so powerful, I could barely stand up. I had to shelter behind the wall, purely so I could have something to eat and recuperate from the wind that I was fighting against. Every time I have visited Buckden Pike It always seemed to be extremely windy. Maybe it is more remote than the other fells? I’m not entirely sure, but one thing is that it offers fantastic views over Wharfedale.
As I descending into the village of Buckden, my mind was captivated by the incredible views. The views were fantastic! It was pure bliss. The descent was long and gradual, and by this point, I was starving. I made a quick pit stop in the village to regain some strength for the last part of the hike. Warm coffee from my hydro flask always helps.
From Buckden, I followed the road to Grange Farm, which took me to the beginning of the long steep hill up to Birks Fell. Apparently, it is one of the more remote fells in the Dales and is rarely visited. I could see why. The trail was narrow, boggy, and extremely steep in parts. It just kept on going. However, every couple of meters I covered in height, the better the views were. Surrounding me with its beauty, freeing me from any self-doubt while I moved through the landscape so freely.
As I approached the summit of Birks Fell, I felt an enormous sense of satisfaction. Knowing That I could go the distance without wanting to quit. Emotions built within me. I thought about so much in that one moment, including the recent passing of my dad. I tried to take it all in, snapping away with my camera before descending gradually along the ridge back down in Kettlewell where I celebrate with a local pint at the Blue Bell Inn.
It’s moments like these that make you feel alive.
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