Cosh Knott & Horse Head
Remote fells in the Dales
Summary
Situated in the valley of Langstrothdale, lies Yockenthwaite. It is one of the smallest hamlets in the Yorkshire Dales and probably one of the quietest, too. The view down the valley is breathtakingly beautiful where the River Wharfe runs for 15 miles through the villages of Yockenthwaite, Deepdale, Beckermonds, and Oughtershaw. The route follows part of the Dale’s way before steeply climbing onto a vast area of pathless hills. This is partly why the fells are as remote as they are. A challenging but rewarding hike where navigation is key.
The Hike
I was told about Cosh Knott and Horse Head by a colleague I used to work with. I explained how I love being in remote places and straight away he mentioned Cosh Knott. I had to find out exactly where this was and how accessible it was to get to. There are many untouched corners of the dales I don’t know about–this was one of them. I couldn’t wait to explore!
I began a little later than usual, as I knew the weather was going to be mild throughout. I journeyed to Yockenthwaite, a hamlet in the valley of Langstrothdale where parking was available on one of many lay-bys. From here I began walking - In the wrong direction. (Should have checked the map properly) Luckily, I had noticed this sooner rather than later and was able to retrace my steps. Also, half of the journey was on the tarmac too, resulting in my day being even longer. Just my luck to be walking in the wrong direction. This is going to be a long day!
Along the River Wharfe’s path, I continued, passing through Deepdale and Beckermonds. The walk was pleasant, but I was eager to end the lengthy stretch of pavement. It was this part of the hike that I found most challenging. Tarmac bashing, as I call it, is never good on your legs or feet.
I could see the ridgeline to the left of me, which I knew would be where Cosh Knott and Horse Head would be. As I followed the road, I arrived at a farmhouse that had what looked like a shop in a shed. Out of all the places, I didn’t expect it to be there. Alas, I didn’t have any money, only my bank card. I could have done with a packet of crisps, too.
Onwards, I continued deeper into the Dales to a vast area that was filled with evergreen trees. Although I was happy wandering through the valley, I was more interested in wandering over the fells. I was ready to finish on the road by now. With that being said, I knew I was close to where I would turn off from the tarmac and begin the adventure over the fells. Although I was a little confused about where to go. There didn’t seem to be a visible path, or signs. As a result, I had to rely on my own wisdom and navigational abilities. Nothing fills me with more excitement than being alone in wild and remote places.
Walking over thick mounds of low-growing moorland shrubs was a challenge. Despite having my GPS, I was desperate to find a path, but couldn’t spot one. It was completely trackless. I pursued my effort upwards, weaving through the sparse environment. It took me ages! And with nothing to follow, it just made the experience so much harder than it should have been.
It was late afternoon by this point, and I still had a little less than halfway to go. Which made me think, if the terrain is going to be like this throughout, it’s going to take me ages. However, in the distance, I could see the remote chimney stack fell off Cosh Knott. It seemed to take ages to get to foot off the trig, especially when there weren’t any tracks to follow.
While summiting Cosh Knott, a great sense of calmness and joy filled me. It’s a feeling I often get when I arrive at any trig point. I looked out over the landscape, filling with mounded hills and pine trees. Its beauty hypnotized me. And while I took a brief break here, relieved to have finished, what I thought was the difficult part over. Little did I know it was just the beginning. Mainly because of how remote it was, my tired weary legs, and the fact that the track I had to follow was barely visible. This was hard work. I continued beside the wall line, navigating my way along the narrow track, over treacherous, muddy, uneven, rocky ground. Luckily, I had brought my walking sticks to help balance me. They are a godsend when it’s conditions like these.
As I continued, I could see the change in the silent landscape. I remember stopping and gazing in the valley thinking, ‘wow, this is incredible’. And to think I had this all to myself. I felt extremely spoilt. Meanwhile, I walked towards Horse Head, the last and final part, and although I was relieved, I was also proud to have finished a hard day out in the Dale. And to have discovered somewhere new that not many dares to discover.
Gallery
