Castle Knott & Calf Top

Summary

Barbondale is a geographer’s dream. With a steep-sided valley carved out through the landscape from the ice age, Barbon beck meanders throughout, and a broad wide grassy unspoiled ridge offers extensive views into the Howgills. The village is in the Lune valley, approximately three miles from Kirkby Stephen and two miles from Casterton. Barbondale is a fascinating area to roam the Dale.

The Hike

It was forecast to be one of the hottest days of the year, reaching temperatures of up to 35 degrees Celsius. I like to experience unusual temperatures, so I thought it would be the perfect time to enjoy a stroll in the Dales, but one that had to be treated carefully to avoid sunstroke or dehydration. I began from the quaint village of Barbon, somewhere I have never visited before, but somewhere I would be happy to visit again. It had a proper Dale’s feel to it. Small and picturesque, surrounded by rolling countryside. 

I began following a long road through Barbon Park while I made my way onto Grassy fields, where I would start the relentless slog of a hill that loomed above me. The path looked steep, narrow, and ill-defined. However, it was the only way to the summit of Castle Knott. 

I puffed my way upwards, every inhale of air that I took felt thick and dry. Every step I took felt harder and harder. I couldn’t believe how hot it was, and this was England! It never gets this hot. Eventually, I arrived at Castle Knott and found sweat seeping from all sorts of places in my body. It wasn’t a pleasant feeling. Meanwhile, my mind captivated with 360 views. I stood there for a while, admiring the rolling countryside unveiling itself below in the Lune Valley.

From the summit of Castle Knott, I followed a long and exposed path while a cool breeze rippled throughout. It amazed me at how hot it was in the valley below compared to the summit. It was at least ten degrees cooler on the top of the fell. The entire area felt exposed, remote, and vast. I felt alone, and all I had for company was the odd roaming sheep to guide me. They were completely unphased by my presence and watched intently as I passed them by.

 I continued along the path which brought me to Calf Top. The view from the trig-point was stunning. I could see the Howgills, the Lakeland fells, Dentdale and Morecambe bay. It was fantastic.

Meanwhile, I now had the challenge of descending. I couldn’t see a visible path; the only way was down an extremely steep hillside. Luckily, I was in no rush and decided it was the perfect spot for lunch; perching myself among the grass which swayed lazily in the wind. I always find the quietness of the fells has the power to reset my mind and body. Almost like meditation. I love it.

After lunch, I descended into the valley below. It was slow progress. As I made small steps, weaving from side to side. Surely this can’t be right? - I thought. I could see the road in which I had to get to, but it never seemed to get any closer. It was taking forever! I hate descending when it’s this steep. By mid-afternoon, I had only just arrived at the V-shaped valley. The road gently meandered through, while I followed alongside Barbon Beck. It was a long and exposed road, and fells from each side surrounded me. By this point, it was the hottest part of the day, which made the beck even more inviting. I couldn’t resist in taking a dip.

As I bathed in the Beck towards the end of the trail, one thing that struck me was that it was extremely refreshing. The cold water made me feel instantly rejuvenated. Something I needed on such a hot day.

It was a glorious end to the hike.

Afterwards, I ambled back to the car and felt I needed a pint to quench my thirst. However, the pub wasn’t open. I guess that’s what happens when you are in a remote part of the dales. Nothing is open.

Maybe next time I visit it will be open.

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